Agrapart & Fils Champagne 7 Crus Brut NV

The 7 Crus Brut NV is the gateway drug into the world of Pascal Agrapart, one of the most thoughtful, dirt-under-the-fingernails growers in the Côte des Blancs. As the name suggests, it’s sourced from seven different villages—primarily Avize, Oger, Cramant, and Oiry (the Grand Crus) plus a few choice Premier Cru spots. It’s mostly Chardonnay, but there’s about 10% Pinot Noir in there just to give it a bit of shoulder and structure.

Agrapart uses indigenous yeasts, very low dosage (usually around 7 grams per liter) and bottles without fining or filtration. This bubbly is electric and bone-dry, so if you like your wines soft and cuddly, move along.