Bucklin Cabernet Sauvignon Old Hill Ranch Sonoma Valley 2019

The 2019 Bucklin Cabernet Sauvignon from the legendary Old Hill Ranch is a bottle that feels like a handshake from a bygone era of California winemaking. Old Hill Ranch is a bona fide Sonoma landmark, a site that’s been dry-farmed and organic since long before those were buzzwords. While the vineyard is famous for its ancient Zinfandel field blends, this Cabernet block is a special beast of its own. Planted in 1983 on AXR rootstock, the vines are devigorated by phylloxera, which sounds technical, but here’s why you should care: it results in incredibly low yields and tiny berries packed with intense, concentrated character.

Unlike the lush, modern Cabs that dominate the valley today, this 2019 leans into an austere and lean profile that harkens back to the 1970s. Think less “dessert in a glass” and more savory structure. There’s a fantastic, bright acidity here that keeps the deep plum and dark chocolate flavors from feeling heavy. The tannins are fine-grained but present, providing a grip that screams for food.