Cataldi Madonna Malandrino Montepulciano D’Abruzzo 2022

The “oven of Abruzzo” might sound like a place you’d go to bake bread, but in the hands of the Cataldi Madonna family, it’s where some of the most vibrant, high-altitude reds in Italy are born. Located in the Ofena plateau, this estate sits in a unique “cold pocket” of a warm region, where dramatic temperature swings at night preserve the kind of snap and crackle that we look for in a great Montepulciano.

The name “Malandrino” translates to “little rascal,” a nod to the wine’s playful, slightly mischievous personality. Since 2012, this bottling has moved entirely away from oak, favoring cement vats and stainless steel to keep the fruit as pure as a mountain spring.

In the glass, it’s a deep, brooding ruby, but the nose is anything but heavy. Expect an explosion of black cherry, blueberry, and crushed violets, with curious, savory undertones of walnut husk and carob. On the palate, it’s remarkably lithe—silky textures meet a saline minerality and a razor-sharp acidity that keeps the dark fruit from feeling weighed down. It’s a red that manages to be both substantial and incredibly refreshing.

This is exactly what we want on the table for a Monday night pasta feast or a wood-fired pizza. It’s honest, soulful, and over-delivers for the price.