Chateau de la Maltroye Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge 2020

The 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet Rouge from Château de la Maltroye is a striking reminder of just how compelling the red wines from this famously white-wine village can be, especially in a sun-drenched, concentrated vintage like 2020.

It’s a stellar example of Jean-Pierre Cornut’s deft hand in a tricky, high-extract vintage. Sourced from plot selections heavily defined by the village’s deep red clay and underlying limestone subsoils, this Pinot Noir benefits beautifully from Cornut’s decision to pull back on the reins during vinification—reducing the total cuvaison (maceration) to preserve vital energy.

The wine opens with a highly expressive bouquet of dark wild berries, black cherries, and plum, and a distinct crack of black pepper. On the palate, it’s medium-bodied but wonderfully dense and sapid. The warmth of the 2020 growing season is evident in the wine’s seductive, velvety mid-palate texture, yet it avoids any sense of heavy-handedness. Energetic acidity gives the dark fruit core excellent drive, leading into a firm, structured finish wrapped in slightly rustic, chalky tannins that are classic Chassagne. This has the stuffing to age gracefully but possesses enough fruit purity to be enjoyed after a short decant.