Domaine Paul Jaboulet Aine Crozes Hermitage Domaine de Thalabert 2020

Deep within the northern reaches of the Rhône Valley, there are a few names that carry the weight of history in every bottle, and Paul Jaboulet Aîné is surely at the top of that list. While they’re often celebrated for their legendary Hermitage, it’s here in the pebbly plains of Crozes-Hermitage where you’ll find some of the most soulful Syrah being made today.

The Domaine de Thalabert is a historic site—the oldest vineyard in the entire appellation, in fact—and it has been under the Jaboulet family’s care since 1834. This isn’t your average tuesday night red. These are old, biodynamically-farmed vines (some nearing 90 years of age) rooted in glacial stones that soak up the Provençal sun by day and radiate that warmth back to the grapes all through the night.

The 2020 vintage captures that intensity perfectly. In the glass, it’s a brooding, shimmering ruby. The nose is classic Northern Rhône: a savory, aromatic lift of black olives, cracked peppercorns, and smoked meats, all layered over a core of concentrated black plum and cassis. On the palate, there’s a wonderful tension between the ripe, dark fruit and a stony, mineral grit. It’s full-bodied and structured with tannins that feel like crushed velvet, yet it maintains a bright, zesty acidity that keeps the whole experience lively.

This is a wine for those who appreciate the wilder, more savory side of Syrah. Decant it for an hour and serve it alongside a herb-crusted leg of lamb or a rich mushroom ragu. While it’s remarkably expressive right now, this is a bottle built for the long haul—tuck a few away in the cellar and watch them evolve for the next decade or two.