Foral Alvarinho Old Vines 2024

The 2024 Foral, which shouldn’t be confused with a fizzy, pool-side vinho verde, is simply a powerhouse. Because the vines have spent decades digging deep into the granitic soils of Melgaço, the fruit they produce is concentrated, not just loud. The nose is a dizzying mix of white peach, lime zest, and wet stones, with a persistent floral note that reminds me of lilies in bloom. On the palate, there’s a surprising weight—a “plumpness,” if you will—that is immediately countered by a laser-beam of acidity and a distinct, briny salinity that makes your mouth water for another sip.

Deep in the northernmost pocket of Portugal, near the Spanish border, the Alvarinho grape finds its most serious, muscular expression. And when you’re talking about “Old Vines” (Vinhas Velhas) like these, you’re moving away from simple refreshment and into the realm of legitimate white wine nobility.