Henri Prudhon & Fils Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly 2023

The Prudhon family are the quiet, soulful keepers of Saint-Aubin. While the village has recently become the “it” destination for those priced out of Chassagne and Puligny, the Prudhons have been there all along, working these stony hillsides with a humility that shows up in every bottle.

The 2023 En Remilly is, quite simply, the reason we look to Saint-Aubin in the first place. This vineyard sits just a stone’s throw—literally, you could throw a rock and hit it—from the Grand Cru Chevalier-Montrachet. It shares that same high-elevation, sun-drenched, rocky DNA, but delivers it with a lean, electric energy that is pure Prudhon.

In 2023, the vintage offered a bit more generosity and sun than the bracing 2022s, but in the hands of Vincent and Philippe Prudhon, the wine remains remarkably chiseled. On the nose, it’s all crushed limestone, citrus pith, and white flowers. The palate is where the magic happens: it starts with a surge of ripe orchard fruit—think crisp pear and green apple—before the tectonic plates of minerality shift, leaving you with a long, salty, vibrating finish.

There is no heavy-handed oak here. There is no artifice. It is just a transparent expression of one of the greatest white wine terroirs on the planet, handled by a family that knows every vine like an old friend. If you want to understand the secret of Burgundy, this is the bottle. It’s sophisticated, high-toned, and possesses a structural integrity that ensures it will age beautifully, though its current energy is almost impossible to resist.