Louis Boillot Moulin-a-Vent Vieilles Vignes 2023

When Louis Boillot—a man who spends his days tending legendary Pinot Noir vines in Gevrey-Chambertin and Volnay—decided to head south to Moulin-à-Vent, he didn’t leave his Burgundian sensibilities at the border. He brought the same meticulous, terroir-driven philosophy to the granite soils of Beaujolais, and the 2023 Vieilles Vignes is the proof in the glass.

This isn’t your “glou-glou” bistro Beaujolais. Sourced from gnarly, deep-rooted vines, some of which date back over 60 years, this wine offers a density and structural integrity that punches far above its weight class. The 2023 vintage is beautifully expressive, leading with a bouquet of dark bramble fruit, crushed violets, and a hint of exotic spice. On the palate, it’s silky yet firm, showing a stony minerality and a depth of black cherry and plum that feels remarkably “Côte d’Or” in its elegance.

It’s a serious red that manages to be both muscular and graceful—a hallmark of Boillot’s style. While it has the grit to age for a decade, its vibrant acidity and supple tannins make it irresistible right now. Pair it with a simple roasted chicken with herbs or, better yet, a classic steak frites. This is a sophisticated bottle for anyone who appreciates the intersection of power and finesse.