Ludes Thornicher Riesling Kabinett Im Schneidersberg 2022

The wines of Hermann Ludes are a window into a nearly forgotten era of Mosel viticulture. While much of the region has trended toward a riper, more user-friendly style, Julian Ludes and his uncle Hermann have doubled down on the old-school: wines of bracing acidity, low alcohol, and an almost tactile mineral presence.

Sourced from the Thörnicher Ritsch, one of the steepest and most grueling vineyards in the world, the “Im Schneidersberg” parcel consists of 80-year-old vines that must be tended entirely by hand. This is a site defined by its weathered grey slate, and that terroir is telecast directly into the glass.

While it is undeniably crackling and vibrant today, its real glory will be revealed with time in the cellar. For the acid-heads and purists who crave the raw, essential energy of the Mosel, this is a must-buy.