Cantina Delsignore Gattinara Il Putto 2020

Located in the Alto Piemonte—the “High Piedmont”—Gattinara offers a different sort of thrill. Here, the Nebbiolo (known locally as Spanna) is shaped by ancient volcanic soils rather than the marl and limestone of the Langhe. The result is a wine that feels like it’s vibrating with iron-rich minerality and a persistent, chalky tension.

The 2020 “Il Putto” is a gorgeous entry point into Stefano Dorelli’s work at Delsignore. On the nose, it’s classic and soulful: think crushed rose petals, dried herbs, and that distinct tar and roses profile, but with a brighter, more alpine edge. There’s a streak of red cherry and anise that feels incredibly precise, backed by the rustic, savory notes of olive and chinato that make Northern Piedmontese reds so food-friendly.

On the palate, it’s medium-bodied and structured with those gritty tannins characteristic of great Spanna. It’s a wine of serious architecture that doesn’t sacrifice elegance. While it’s showing plenty of primary fruit and floral energy now, the volcanic spine suggests it has a long life ahead of it.