Ampeau Auxey-Duresses Ecusseaux Rouge 1999

The sheer range of Ampeau’s current library is stunning. Not only does Ampeau typically wait a lot longer to release vintages than his peers, Michel has also held onto select lots going back to the early 1990s and even 1976 Volnay-Santenots. Those six frigid cellars contain a staggering trove of Premier Cru and village wines from one of the most priceless estates in the Côte de Beaune. These age-burnished rarities are indelible evocations of the Côte de Beaune—all still fresh, bright and complex, like sparks of a singular life locked in suspended animation.