David Trousselle Santenay Rouge 2020

When Pierre Boisson—of the cult-favorite Meursault domaine Boisson-Vadot—tells you he’s excited about a young grower, you listen. That grower is David Trousselle, and his 2020 Santenay Rouge is a perfect example of why we pay close attention to the marginal terroirs of the Côte de Beaune.

Trousselle is based in the cool, high-elevation hamlet of Orches. Historically, these out-of-the-way spots struggled to get Pinot Noir fully ripe. But in a warm, solar vintage like 2020, these sites have become the “Goldilocks” zones of Burgundy. While the valley floor can sometimes edge toward heavy or over-extracted in hot years, Trousselle’s 0.3-hectare parcel in Santenay preserves the exhilarating tension and chalky mineral grip that we look for in great Pinot.

David is a minimalist in the cellar. He uses indigenous yeasts, mostly neutral barrels, and a very gentle hand with extraction. The result is a wine that delivers the “soul of Volnay and the body of Pommard” (as the locals say of Santenay) but with a freshness that feels entirely modern.

At a time when Burgundy prices are reaching the stratosphere, Trousselle is making wines that aren’t just compelling and delicious—they’re unbelievable values. This is a bottle to drink now for its crunchy fruit, but it has the balance to age beautifully in a cool cellar for several years.